Saturday, August 2. Arrowhead Lake. 12 1/2 miles. 10,500 ft.
The day dawned clear and hopeful at Marjorie Lake. We climbed the couple miles to Pinchot Pass and gazed beyond into a broad alpine basin - the source of Woods Creek preparing to descend toward the South Fork of the Kings River.
Drew started slowly, weary physically, or more likely, weary psychologically. I think he is growing tired of this tedious, endless walk. Right now, this magnificent country is not compensation enough for him.
The descent from Pinchot Pass at 12,100 feet down to the Woods Creek crossing at 8,500 feet is simply horrible. There must be a better way. Dropping nearly 4,000 feet in 3 1/2 miles crushes bones and spirits alike. Having hiked it before, I told a mild-mannered couple we meet regularly on the trail that they would be angry by the time they completed the descent. When we met again at the bottom, they emphatically confirmed my assessment.
From the low point at Woods Creek, we climbed four miles and 2,000 feet to this spot at Arrowhead Lake. The weather was mostly clear, but clouds kept building. The inevitable rain came several times on our walk, but lightly and briefly. Drew led the way with newfound energy that seemed to rise out of utter determination more than any joyful effort. Each stride seemed to say, "Let's get this over with."
On arrival here at Arrowhead Lake, his spirits picked up. We found a site and pitched the tent just before (conveniently, for once) the only extended rainfall of the day began. Tucked in the tent, secure from the rain, we talked about the food we want to eat when we get home and the dwindling number of days left on our trip. This lifted Drew's spirits for the entire evening and allowed him to reflect with some pride on having carried a heavy pack 170 miles over difficult terrain.
After several hours of rain, the sky is mostly clear. We continue to hope this strange wet weather pattern has passed and that clear weather will prevail for the remainder of the trip. I can't stand being in the tent when I know that the sky outside is filled with stars.
Stove problems at dinner tonight. It has been balky for several days, but this time I couldn't conjure up a strong blue flame. A dead stove and we can't finish the trip. I checked the jet - all clear, but when I opened the valve after priming, I got no powerful hiss of air and fuel racing out. I took it apart yesterday, but no improvement. At best, I get interrupted hissing and regular popping. At worst, a lazy yellow flame, then nothing.
Hopefully, the now-clear sky means Drew can enjoy this beautiful spot tomorrow in the morning light. It is spectacular here, but we barely looked up when we arrived as we raced to set up camp ahead of the rain.
Two passes in two days. And two passes in the next two days. Strength grows, but so does the exhaustion at the continuous effort.
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