Monday, July 28 and Tuesday, July 29. Le Conte Canyon. 8,700 feet. 14 miles.
Yesterday was all I hoped this trip would be as well as a continuation of what it has been.
We woke early at Evolution Lake. We were camped in a community of weather weary backpackers who all seemed to be here more due to weather conditions than choice. However, the compensation is that this lake is, I think, the most beautiful on the trail. The curling shoreline, the small just-so islands, the wind-sculpted whitebark pines that manage a living in the cracks of this glacier-raked granite. All warmed in soft morning light.
We walked through a crystal clear morning to Muir Pass - perfect walking and so far, the most memorable part of this trip. By 8:00, we were on our way. We are now both feeling fit and strong, so we enjoyed the manageable gradient past Evolution Lake, Wanda Lake up to the Muir Hut at the summit of Muir Pass. The morning was glorious, perfect weather. The surrounding peaks, the crystalline lakes and the perfect cascades connecting them - all combined to make a magical scene for two rain weary walkers. We stopped at Wanda Lake (named for one of Muir's daughters) for a snack, some photos, and frog watching. All alone at Muir Hut atop the pass, we made entries in the register and started down the other side.
Several times on this trip I have noticed that on the south side of the passes, the terrain is far tougher than the north from which we have come. Silver Pass down to Mono Creek, Selden Pass to the South Fork of the San Joaquin River - Drew and I agreed that both would be horrible to climb. The descent from Muir Pass to here, Le Conte Canyon, at the junction of the John Muir Trail and the Dusy Basin/Bishop Pass Trail was likewise relentless. I was glad to be descending.
The summit of Muir Pass marked the daily decline in the weather. Once again, I hoped the gathering clouds were just mountain fluffies blowing innocently by. Drew and I stopped and cooked a hot lunch just beyond the pass. As we were packing to leave, one of our constant companions, thunder, gave notice that something serious was brewing.
Having crossed the pass, we vowed to walk through whatever might come. What came was a repeat of yesterday's torrential hailstorm. Hailstones were big enough and came hard enough to be uncomfortable on our heads. But we walked through it - five miles or so - to here. Eventually, the hail turned to rain, but the intensity did not abate.
So, here we are a day early. We had set aside a day to climb Mt. Goddard, but as with Mt. Lyell earlier, weather has ruled that out. This morning, our first in Le Conte Canyon, dawned cloudy robbing us of the hopefulness that came with past clear mornings. The additional day here will be a nice opportunity to wash clothes, bodies and just rest.
Our physical state is good. Drew is strong - no foot or boot issues - only soreness where his pack rests on his shoulders and hips. Even then, those complaints are occasional and faint. We've noted that each of us appears to be losing weight, but we eat all we can.
The effects of my Bridalveil Falls tumble persist but ease. My left little toe is still twice the size of my right one. My left foot is still swollen, as are both of my knees, but remarkably these things don't seem to hamper performance. Though our strength grows, I do notice that late in the day, my walking gets sloppier and full attention must be given to each step.
My new internal frame pack with its more contoured carrying system has been a joy to carry. It virtually eliminates the raw, highly tender pressure points I experienced with my old external frame pack.
Tomorrow we meet Peter for a resupply. He will leave from the trailhead at South Lake and meet us in Dusy Basin just this side of Bishop Pass at noon. Will he be there? Will it hail or rain or thunder and lightning when we meet? Is he prepared for that?
The weather is at the center of all we do and any logistical consideration. How long can it last? It is uncanny - almost unbelievable. So un-Sierra-like. It can't last. It can't last.
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