Bennettville

I have visited Yosemite National Park enough to convince myself that there are few surprises left there for me, at least when it comes to day hike destinations. Wrong…again.

I had known of Bennettville, a ghost town dating back to the 1860’s, for a long time but had always driven passed the trailhead only promising to go there sometime soon. Although not strictly within the park boundary, Bennettville is just over the Sierra crest barely a chip shot from the Tioga Pass entrance. A few years ago, I spent several days in Lee Vining along with my friends Jean Blomquist and Greg Kepferle. We were part of a group there to hike up Mt. Hoffman a couple days hence and had come early to explore on our own. A perfect chance to finally visit Bennettville.

The walk to Bennettville and the ghost town itself are both pleasant, but unremarkable. Only two buildings remain in a cool rugged perch that opens to Mt. Dana in the distance. Mine tailings, a barred mine shaft, and abandoned rusty machinery testify to the long gone hubbub that is such a contrast to today’s stillness. Sadly, I am sure that once most hikers reach Bennettville, they turn back. We found that the ghost town is where the hike begins.

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Gentle beauty below, powerful peaks above. With each step, White Mountain filled more of the view ahead. I imagined what this east-facing setting would look like at sunrise. Right then, I promised I would return in the morning. 

With no headlamp or adequate flashlight, I thrashed a bit as I made my way through the darkness the next morning. And indeed, I got a nice photograph, but more than that, I got an unforgettable morning.

Lush Desert – Anza Borrrego Desert State Park

The wet winter of 2016-2017 was one of those that wildflower lovers long for. In California, when they come, the show is in the desert. Features on the CBS Evening News and NPR from Anza Borrego Desert State Park confirmed that the display was epic. Friends who had gone there in prior wet years returned with enthusiastic reports of jaw-dropping sights. I was not going to miss out this time.

I found an airbnb in Julian, only a one-hour drive from Borrego Springs, but as different as a landscape can be. At an elevation of 4,226 feet, Julian sits at the crest of the Cuyamaca Mountains that drain all the moisture from east bound storm clouds leaving little for Anza Borrego and the desert beyond. 

 

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Here are a few shots from that spot. It was lovely indeed, but such a vast park beckons a visitor to quieter corners. So, I ventured out, but a park this size is a feast that can only be weakly sampled on a three-day visit. In my next few posts, I will share some images of simpler beauty away from the busy loop road.  

Happening By

In my last post, I mentioned that the main key to getting a good photograph is just being out there and having your camera with you. This photo is a perfect example.

I was on the road early one morning bound for an Outdoor Writers Association of California conference. On the stretch of Interstate 680 between Benicia and Fairfield, I looked to my right and saw a lovely convergence of sunrise, wetland, and lonely farm buildings that called to me. The hardest part was getting off the busy stretch of highway and onto the frontage road.

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Maybe so, but nevertheless, I love the beauty.

Being There

Many years ago, I decided to nurture my basic interest in photography with a concerted effort to improve. After decades of reading and field seminars, my pictures have gotten better. Yet while I truly enjoy photography, in the end, it is one among a handful of avocations that I pursue only now and then…when I feel like it.

However hard a person works to become a better photographer, I still contend that the number one requirement for taking good photographs is simply being there (with a camera, of course). Often, when someone compliments me on a scenic photo, I respond with the comment, “In that spot, a chimpanzee could have taken a lovely picture.” And it’s true.

Never has that fact been more fully and unbelievably verified than in this photograph.

Our solar eclipse sojourn last August included a visit to Steens Mountain, a curious and isolated 9,738-foot peak in southeast Oregon’s high desert country. We were perhaps a third of the way along the 52-mile dirt road that traverses the mountain when we stopped at an overlook. Kiger Gorge is one of several classic U-shaped glacial valleys that descends the slopes of Steens Mountain. Even a view hampered by smoke from summer wildfires couldn’t diminish the immensity of the setting. The earth fell instantly and steeply away. The lip of the cirque was a crisp edge to a very deep and very broad valley cut by the long gone river of ice.
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As I scampered along the edge of the gorge with my camera, I looked to my left. “What the heck…?” A blond woman wearing a loose-fitting, full length, shiny bright fuchsia windswept taffeta dress stood on the edge of the cirque gazing down the valley. Well, of course. Happens all the time.

The amazing opportunity that such a juxtaposition presented trumped my usual shyness in such situations. Over I went. And while I did talk to her and her partner about taking her picture there, I took this one before I spoke to them. It is candid and not posed.

A short while later on the Steens Mountain road, we stopped to help the couple who were standing beside their disabled vehicle (a fancy high-clearance custom vehicle that looked like a cross between a Hummer and an RV). A transmission fluid leak couldn’t be stopped. Only our cell phone had service in this empty landscape. They called a tow truck in Burns, two and a half hours away. It was the young woman’s 40th birthday.

It was an adventurous day with a valuable photography lesson: When in the middle of nowhere, find a lovely woman wearing a full length fuchsia dress.

Resurrecting the Tramp

Yes, I know the middle sun is larger

Had I named this blog “Annual Tramp,” I would still not have met the time frame of the title. But that was then, and this is now.

Let me begin the resuscitation with an event that was on all our minds last summer, the total solar eclipse. A good friend approached me about joining him on a road trip to a hidden canyon in northern Nevada. The canyon is just below the path of the total eclipse, so it was natural to shape our itinerary to include it. Years ago, dear friends who travel the world to view total solar eclipses emphatically told me that before I leave this earth, I must be sure to see one. I never forgot.

Our route north took us through Alturas where we snagged Highway 395. A couple miles before the Oregon border, we stopped at Stringer’s Orchard Distillery and bought some “craft” gin that would fuel the evenings ahead. By the time we got to John Day, eclipse hubbub was all around. The town buzzed and every ball field and vacant lot was partitioned with stakes and police tape into crisp rows of campsites. My companion, an avid maphead, had identified a specific remote location north of John Day, but when we got there, other eclipse viewers had beaten us to the punch. A bit farther north, several miles up a Forest Service road, we claimed a hilltop site with a sweeping view. Perfect.
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On much of our trip, the sky was murky with fire smoke, but eclipse morning dawned crystalline. Having done some eclipse photography homework, we set up our equipment, then sat and waited. Every source I consulted about photographing an eclipse finished with the same advice: don’t let your photography distract you from the magic of the event. And that is a danger. While the eclipse would last for about four hours, totality would be just over two minutes.

As the remaining slice of sun thinned toward totality, the air chilled. Sunsets have edges – shafts of light here, shadows there – but this was an eerie uniform dusk that evenly dimmed the hundreds of square miles we could see. Going, going, gone. People on our hilltop gasped and called out, and I felt a stirring I checked with a deep swallow and several rapid blinks. Overhead, an astounding jewel radiated needles of pure white light alone in the near total darkness.

Not even the seven-mile long string of cars waiting to get through the lone stop sign in Long Creek could tarnish the day. The friends who advised me to be sure to see a total solar eclipse were right.

Junipero Serra Peak

M-Hunter LiggettA recent day adventure took me back to a special place I hadn’t visited since 2005. Back then, I went there at the insistence of a friend who said the wildflower display there was over the top. This photo confirms his assessment. Once I saw it, I became an evangelist luring anyone who would listen to come see if the scene lived up to my wild claims. No one was disappointed.

Summit Mdw Tele View-2It is the Big Sur coastline that puts the Santa Lucia Range on the marquee, but I find most trails on the coast side a bit too confining. I feel as though I am walking between skyscrapers in San Francisco’s Financial District; walled in with a narrow sliver of sky overhead. Hidden on the other side of the Santa Lucias is a wide valley that nearly shames the Garden of Eden.

This past January, I came with my eye on Junipero Serra Peak, at 5,856′, the highest peak in the Santa Lucia Range, but it was the long valley I rediscovered that stole the show.

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Meadow 2 Oaks-10-2Like much of the Coast Range, the Santa Lucia’s are steeply corrugated and very rough. But this green valley parted the mountains with a wide twelve-mile long expanse dotted with valley oaks. Every spot was an ideal movie location some idyllic country picnic.

If the El Niño predictions come true after four years of drought, I am hopeful for a repeat of the 2005 wildflower display.

Your Landscape

 


When I stood here at the entrance to Miter Basin, I was truly amazed. It was so vast and grand, and it had appeared so suddenly. The urge to enter and explore was irresistible; not only the basin floor but the succession of lakes I knew were nestled above. When my wife, Renée, saw this photo, or when she sees any landscape like it, she dismisses it as barren. It holds no allure for her.

I am interested in the responses people have to different landscapes. I won’t pretend to be a psychologist and guess what they might mean, but I wouldn’t be surprised if they might reveal a good deal about our basic nature. Renée loves a seaside setting or the golden oak-studded California hills. I do too, but they don’t trigger the same spinal tingle that I feel at the likes of Miter Basin.

I came to Miter Basin with four friends, and I was interested to note that the others set up camp in or near the grove of foxtail pines at the base of the slope you see in the picture. I preferred to plunk down near the middle of the basin so that I could feel the immensity of the landscape and see as much of the night sky as possible (the tent was only in case of rain). Mmmm, I wonder.
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Wherever we chose to roll out our bags, each of us was enchanted with Miter Basin. The rim of the basin is surrounded by 13,000′ peaks, and each recess above holds a mountain lake with its own unique charm. Beautiful fall reds colored a ground-hugging mosaic of alpine flora. Daybreak songs of a coyote choir echoed up and down the granite walls, adding to the mystery and magic.

Leave the psychologists out of it, I guess. Let each of us prefer the part of nature we do without explanation. “Why” isn’t important. The gift of just standing there is enough.

 

 

Baby Grand Scenery

Creek Bottom LiteOur relationship with nature, even when we intentionally seek it, is usually superficial. Unless the scope is wide and the scenery grand, we tend to tune out. We demand grandeur. If we are not perched on the rim of the Grand Canyon or standing beneath the immense monolith of El Capitan, we often don’t take notice. It’s a pity, for we miss so much.

Few people are more guilty of this than I am. I tend to discount the landscape around my home as ordinary and unremarkable. It just doesn’t stir my juices. And of course, I would be the first to preach the exact opposite-that all landscapes have their own special beauty.

Any possible guesses? For those of you who are depressed buy levitra due to erectile dysfunction, here is some good news that you might want to hear. For people of young age the dosage is one viagra sample pill every 24 hours. Driver education classes also teach learners about traffic rules as per the requirements cialis sales australia of their state. Recent articles suggest order levitra online that male impotence is now a novel disorder, but a dysfunction that deterred men from a good seller. StumpRock1But when I open up to it, photography allows me to witness the extraordinary in places I might otherwise dismiss as ordinary. The nature of beauty I find in “ordinary” places is not vast and grand, but baby grand. The wide angle lens generally stays in the bag and is replaced by a normal or telephoto lens. Morsels of stunning beauty are often at my feet, but it doesn’t come easily to me. I have to leave the house determined to look – really look, and then see. The irony in all this is that the photographs I enjoy most are those intimate portraits of a ho-hum subject, that when abstracted from a cluttered landscape, is simply lovely.

No doubt, I will continue to long for my favorite natural settings and overlook the little wonders near home that I pass without notice. But I will work to remember; to still the internal noise, walk more slowly, look carefully, and see the baby grand scenery all around.

Earth Shadow

Earth ShadowIn one of Galen Rowell’s many books about the outdoors and nature photography, I read a surprising and interesting fact about something we can see every day.

Soon after sunset, look toward the eastern horizon, opposite where the sun slipped from view. On a clear evening, you will see a sight just as you see in this photograph. Notice the line across the sky that separates two distinct shades of color. Below, the sky is a darker shade, kind of blue/purple. Above, it is lighter and pinkish. The line separating these two shades will slowly climb in the sky until it disappears altogether. You are seeing the shadow of the earth reflected back to you on atmospheric haze. If you were suspended in space above the line, the sun would be shining on you. If you were situated below it, the sun would have already set.
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I love knowing this little nugget. It’s not a doozie like a comet or a solar eclipse, but now, instead of just colors in the sky, every evening I feel I am witness to a little cosmic event; a humbling but happy reminder of our delicate presence in an amazing universe.

Adventure

Ron on TopI recently wrote a post about adventure; the notion that the urge for it is a greater motivator than we recognize. I suggested that 49ers came to California as much for the adventure as for the prospect of striking it rich. As evidence, I offered the testimony of many who went to a later gold rush: the Klondike in 1898-9. As with the California Gold Rush, virtually everyone returned empty-handed, but most who were interviewed by author Pierre Berton looked back on that time with fondness and satisfaction.

The idea that adventure is a potent motivator continues to widen and deepen in my mind. I read a lot of history about America’s westward migration from the fur trappers to settlers who loaded their belongings in a Conestoga wagon and lit out for Oregon and California. In the pie chart of their reasons for going, how big a piece was venturing into wild and unknown territory? More than they would acknowledge, I’ll bet. You can’t tell the family you are going west because it would be exciting. You have to be practical: land, climate, a second chance, opportunity. Those things get a chunk of the pie chart, but I suggest the urge to go west came as much from the heart as the head.

Flip through your own mental scrapbook. What memories bring a wistful smile to your face? Backpacking through Europe after college? Three years in the Peace Corps? That cross country road trip in your mid-20’s?
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Adventure SignWe often buttress our case to do something new and exciting with “reasons,” but more and more, I think the real reason we want to do it is because it is new and exciting; aka an adventure.

I keep this lovely graphic on a stand by my desk to remind me how important adventure is to a full and happy life. Certainly, the word means something different to everyone. But we don’t need to define it. When you hear a suggestion that at once excites you and scares you…that’s it. That’s an adventure. Go.

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